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Community Corner

Knight's Bistro: Why the Hate?

Food writer Dave Valiante asks readers: How did a pizza-and-sub shop become Collingswood's most controversial new eatery?


Geez, what happened?

When I previewed  back in April, I was charmed by owner Nick Abbate’s enthusiasm in anticipation of opening his flagship Collingswood location. Abbate seemed genuinely excited and honored to stand among the giants that have given Collingswood one of the premiere dining destinations in the state.

I tried to convey that excitement in my column to give the denizens of Haddon Avenue something new to look forward to. Knight’s Bistro wasn’t promising gourmet and luxury, champagne flowing from the rafters and a dining experience so fulfilling that the Michelin Guide book would be forced to drop in.

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All Knight’s Bistro wanted to give us was good food, good prices and friendly service.

The backlash was almost immediate.

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My preview was flooded with comments, some hopeful, but most pessimistic at the idea that something so simple would have the audacity to show up on Haddon Ave. After Knight’s Bistro opened, pessimism turned into outright disgust.

Yelp has done Knight’s Bistro no favors, either. The restaurant currently has six user reviews, five of which have awarded one star. The other (and best) review of Knight’s Bistro is a sub par two-star review. Common gripes were: “flavorless food,” “white sauce that tasted like butter and water,” “lousy pizza” and “marinara sauce that was little better than Ragu.”

Yikes. Could Knight’s Bistro really be that bad?

I’ve eaten there a few times for lunch, and I have to admit, at the risk of being run out of town by an angry mob, I can’t understand where all of the vitriol stems from.

I like Knight’s Bistro.

Before you fire up the torches, allow me to explain myself. I believe the problem stems from a recurring theme in which there seems to be a level of expectation that the restaurant wasn’t prepared, or expecting, to meet.

For example, as reader Ken M. wrote on Yelp, he was expecting to see “the likes of Portabella burgers, homemade soups, Pomme Frites, roasted eggplant, Kale salads, Hummus platters, etc. Or maybe some Charcuterie/Salumi {sic}, Pat LaFreida style burgers, etc.” 

Marizo has every right to have certain expectations for where he chooses to spend his money. The problem with these expectations is that when someone sets the bar too high, they’re almost certain to be disappointed. It’s a mistake I, too, have made time and again.

The casual-is-as-casual-does approach of Knight’s Bistro shouldn’t be seen as a weakness on Haddon Ave. There is no limit of elegant options around here, from nuevo American and its spunky little brother to the rustic Italian range of options that spans from to . sports high-energy South American flare (and, in my opinion, the best burgers in town), and there is still no shortage of casual-yet-refined destinations like and .

Knight’s Bistro fills its own niche and fills it quite nicely. A few small missteps aside, I haven’t experienced anything overtly unpleasant. The prices are moderate; nearly everything, including entrees, is less than $12 (specialty pizzas run $17-19, and are also available by the slice).

I’ve sampled the buffalo chicken and margherita pizza, and both were very good. As a matter of fact, as far as standard pizza shops go, Knight’s Bistro has better pizza than just about anywhere else I’ve eaten in town, with the exception of .

The rest of the menu checked out as well. Decent cheesesteaks, chicken parm, manicotti; the only thing I’ve tried that I didn’t care for was the grilled chicken pesto panini, which was admittedly pretty bland.

All in all, Knight’s Bistro is a fine place to grab a quick bite to eat, to be in and out in twenty minutes with only a few bucks to spend. It’s a nice option to have, as there aren’t many like it along Haddon Ave.

I understand the pride and dignity that comes with living and eating around Collingswood. The town sits head and shoulders above the closest competition. Haddonfield has some great restaurants, although it offers a broader focus on providing other Mom & Pop services to round out its downtown scene. Cherry Hill, possibly Collingswood’s closest competition, has some choice spots, but the bread and butter of Cherry Hill’s dining scene are a bunch of glorified, overpriced chain restaurants that surround the mall and dupe customers into believing they’re eating well because they’re paying more. But we know better.

It’s that well-earned dignity and pride that may occasionally border on arrogance, but that’s the price to be paid for being the best. In defense of Knight’s Bistro, they’ve never pretended to be something they weren’t—so we shouldn’t hold them to that standard.

Morsels

  • I don’t want to give the impression that anybody who doesn’t like Knight’s Bistro is “wrong.” Everybody is entitled to his or her own opinion, and if you believe Knight’s Bistro is the worst food you’ve tasted in Collingswood, you’re more than welcome to feel that way.
  • I want to give a shout out to IndeBlue, Collingswood’s premiere Indian destination, because it’s outstanding. I don’t get the opportunity to say much about them, so here it is. If you haven’t yet eaten at IndeBlue, you’re doing yourself a disservice.
  • Don’t forget about the Collingswood Farmers Market, every Saturday from 8 a.m. until noon! I found a poblano pepper plant there for my garden, something I couldn’t find anywhere else. Anyway, join their newsletter for updates every Thursday.
  • Farm To Fork Week! July 22—July 28, enjoy a four-course meal at a number of South Jersey restaurants for $35. This restaurant week is sponsored by SJ Hot Chefs, where you can find more information and menus.
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