With 14 Italian Restaurants in Collingswood, How Does Villa Barone Stack up?

Much has been made about the excess of Italian restaurants in Collingswood—a lot of it by me, probably (and I’m sorry for coming off, at times, as an incessant whiner on the subject).

But when it comes to dining diversity in town, choices.

We have one South American restaurant (El Sitio), one Mexican restaurant (The Tortilla Press), and one Cuban restaurant (Casona). If you want new American, there's Blackbird/West Side Gravy. 

Collingswood is home to two Indian restaurants, one Thai restaurant, one grilled cheese restaurant—you get the idea.

How many Italian restaurants are there in town? I counted 14. From casual pizza shops Stella and Café Antonio’s II to the super-refined Zeppoli and Sapori, and everything in between, that’s a lot. 

But New Jersey is the epicenter of Italian heritage, a concentration of culture that’s constantly refueled by New York and South Philly. Want a counterexample? Nebraskans are eating Domino's because that’s their best option. I wouldn’t on a dare. 

The thing about having a plethora of Italian restaurants is that it takes a while to try them all. Some people see 14 restaurants as a gluttonous overkill; I see a way to eat different kinds of pasta every single night for two weeks straight.

But I hadn’t eaten at Villa Barone this until this week, which is a shame. Villa Barone is really a nice restaurant, and I’ll tell you why.

Familiar but generous and tasty

(Disclosure: If you read this column often, you’ll notice I typically praise the places I eat. Quite simply, the restaurants earn it. I’m not a food critic, and I’ve never pretended to be one. I’m a regular guy who takes great pleasure in going out to eat.)

I look for the same three qualities I feel most of us look for: good food, good service and a good atmosphere. If you try your best to provide all three, I can’t be disappointed. Villa Barone hits the mark in all three categories.

The interior was striking yet humble, and emits a warm and cozy aura. The service was excellent as well: Our waitress was pleasant, attentive and welcoming.

I can’t tell you how many times I’ve had an otherwise wonderful dinner ruined by a waitress poorly feigning interest or a waiter who decides you’re a bad tipper before even greeting your table, and treats you accordingly.

As great as sharp service and beautiful ambiance can be, the beginning and end of any argument about restaurants is the food.

This is why having so many Italian restaurants in Collingswood becomes interesting, and somewhat difficult. It can be quite stressful to make your ricotta gnocchi stand out among that of your 13 neighbors who are all trying to entice a couple strolling the avenue. 

Although familiar, the food at Villa Barone is quite tasty, and portioned generously. The eggplant parmigiana and lobster ravioli were among my favorites, but a standout was the pumpkin ravioli.

It’s a special seasonal dish that in all likelihood won’t be available much longer, but if you get a chance to try it, don’t pass on the opportunity. The pumpkin puree is one the sweet side, balanced with an earthy wild mushroom cream sauce; truly delightful. 

When choosing Italian in this town, you’ve got some things to consider. Casual or fine dining? Familiar menu or something exotic? Affordability or splurging? There’s something for everyone in Collingswood, and Villa Barone fills its own particular niche.